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Upgrades have started

        You know how it is, you get a new toy and you can’t wait to play with it. For me cars are like that. While I love driving my cars, working to make them better is why I have these cars. So it hasn’t taken long to start to upgrade the Stepside. I will not change anything major on the body the interior is just way to basic for me. Like I said, no carpet, no headliner and the bench seat make the interior look and feel like a farm truck.

        January 9, 2016

        The gauge cluster need work too. I found a rebuilt gauge cluster and ordered it. I also have ordered Sports Seats from Corbeau along with their mounting hardware. Because the truck now has a bench seat in it the Corbeau bucket seats mounting frame will span the width of the interior and the section between the seats will be exposed. I could make custom seat mounts so each seat would mount individually to eliminate this issue but I plan on a center console anyway and that center section will make an easy way to help mount it.

        January 15, 2016

        The rebuilt gauge cluster came today and it is a thing of beauty, hope it works as good as it looks. Experience tells me getting under the dash is much easier with the seat removed so I will wait to install it until I pull the seat out. After my road test yesterday I decided to get a larger front sway bar from CPP. The truck handles pretty well but I’m a sports car guy and there is just too much body lean to suit me. They also make a rear bar but I’ll wait to see how much the front bar helps before getting that.

        January 16, 2016

        I got home from our monthly GSRA meeting to find two huge boxes containing the Corbeau Sport Seats and seat frame sitting on my front porch. They look great. The seats are light and the frame is very well built. The instructions say to install the seats on the frame and then put the assembly in the truck. I did manage to get the seats mounted to the frame and have started to figure out the center console layout. It is going to be huge, there is about 13” between the seats. Of course with the small cab in this truck and a glove compartment that is a joke the huge console will be a plus. With the seats mounted to the frame the whole assembly is pretty heavy, looks like I will be recruiting some help. With the gauge cluster and the seats I will have a few days of work ahead of me.

        January 22, 2016

        Winter has reared its ugly head. Yeah, even in Georgia we get winter. Even though I have semi-heat in the garage I can’t seem to get motivated to go out there. I have received several items for the truck, a console top and a cup holder from a 2001-2006 Chevy Tahoe which will become my center console between the seats. I also received a 1.125” front sway bar from CPP which hopefully will help the body lean of the truck. The lean is not excessive but flatter is better so therefore a bigger bar.

        January 25, 2016

        It’s Georgia and for now winter is over, it’s in the 50s today. I turned on my garage heater and started fabricating the console. I got the console’s aluminum bottom mounted on the seat frame, used some hinges I had to mount the Tahoe top to a sheet of aluminum which will be the back of the console and riveted that to the bottom. The sides will be a little harder since the top edges bend slightly at the front but it doesn’t look too difficult to fabricate. The cup hold part will attach to the front of the console but final fabrication will have to wait until the whole thing is in the truck to see how it fits around the transmission hump.

        January 27, 2016

        Over the past two days I have been working on the console. It has taken more time than I thought but it is progressing. I got the whole frame built and the cup holder in place. I ran out of aluminum sheets for the sides so I am stuck until I get more. Since this thing is so big I am a little reluctant to use panel adhesive to hold it all together but will use it in some places. My plan for final finish is still being debated. Of course the easy way out is to paint it but covering it to match the top and seats would look better. But my skills at upholstery have been less than successful in the past. I may just wait until I get carpet and the headliner installed and let the professional cover it.

        February 2, 2016

        Console work continues, this could take me the rest of my life! I got much of it glued together and the side panels made. But I ran out of adhesive and local suppliers want a small fortune for it so I ordered on-line at half the price. I think I will make some trim for the side panels which will make the top fit better and should look good.

        February 12, 2016

        I have spent the past few days working on the “console from hell”. This thing has a mind of its own but the end is in sight. I am adding some 1” aluminum trim around the edges to give it a more professional look. I’m thinking now that the panels will be painted, maybe with wrinkle finish to match the gauge cluster. I have also been cleaning up stuff the PO did inside the engine bay. Mainly electrical stuff. I installed a battery disconnect switch to make it easier to work on anything electrical on the truck in the future. I used a junction block to connect all things that run directly off the battery in the engine bay much like I did on the Z. The PO also did not solder any of his connectors relying on simply crimping them, as an electronic tech this is just wrong, I will fix all that.

        February 18, 2016

        I am so close to getting this console built. All the metal work is done at long last. I will add some body filler at the seams since the plan now is to paint the trim black. I have ordered some vinyl for the panels that will match the Chevy Tahoe lid.

        I installed the CPP sway bar. This didn’t quite go as easily as I thought. The only real problem was the holes in the lower control arms were too small for the bushings to sit properly. No big deal I just drilled them to 5/8” but you would think CPP would have provided either bushings that would fit or at least bring that up in the instructions.

        I also installed a battery disconnect and a +12v terminal block. I hate headers on street cars! Yeah, they look cool but really add very little in performance and on this engine makes it nearly impossible to get at the +12v cable on the starter to replace it. To get to this I was thinking I may have to remove the starter or pull off the header, but if nothing I am persistent. After trying every combination of tools I have I was able to get it off and the new one installed. While I was under the truck I noticed there is no flex plate cover on the transmission I will see if any of my friends have one they will part with. Speaking of headers these are starting to rust so I will have to address that at some point.

        February 21, 2016

        Today it is fairly warm so I turned on the heater and pulled the truck out of the garage to paint the console. One coat of primer/adhesion promoter and three coats of satin black wheel paint was applied to the trim pieces. It looks pretty good. The pewter upholstery should be here in a couple days so I can test my skills at installing it. I foresee any major issues since all the panels are pretty flat with simple corners

        Next I will attack the brake and fuel lines positions to move them away from the headers. Then address the leaks in the transmission and steering box.

        February 23, 2016

        I decided to further clean up the engine bay wiring and hide the huge groups of wires behind the inner fenders. The way the truck is built the inner fender sits on top of the wheel wells so the wires will still be protected from the elements. While unraveling the cables I found more shaky wiring. There were a lot of poorly crimped connections which I removed and soldered and added some real connectors is some places. I also found three connections made with house wiring wire-nuts, scary stuff! One thing I found that confused me a little was a mystery connector hidden under a mound of electrical tape. It went nowhere and two of the pins were jumped together. I posted a picture on the message board to see what it was. I was thinking it was possibly for the old voltage regulator that the PO had removed during the engine swap and the jumper was to make the one wire alternator work properly. That was confirmed on the message board. I remove the connector and soldered the two jumped wire together. Two of wire nuts turned out to be replacements for the parking light connector. I am searching for that connector but will temporarily wire the parking light back with the wire nuts. The other wire nut was just laziness on the Vintage Air installer to not make a wire long enough.

        February 29, 2016

        I finished the console today by applying some dark pewter colored vinyl to the panels and installed the C/10 emblem to the front. Unfortunately once again this went to prove I am not an upholstery guy but it looks decent. But I need to address the brake and fuel lines before they become a safety issue. So the interior upgrades are on hold for now.

        March 2, 2016

        Some new stuff I have been procuring has started to roll in. I picked up a set of original ’69 302 valve covers which will add a bit of authenticity to the engine. To install them I needed grommets for the pcv system which consists of the pcv valve and its hose, the carb spacer with the port for the pcv hose replaces the spacer already on the engine, the breather hose that is installed on the other valve cover and is hooked to the air cleaner and of course an original oil cap. All told it was quite a bit of money just to make the engine look original, but it does look cool.

        March 4, 2016

        Today was not a fun day! I got a couple things I thought would be easy to install…they were not. The first thing I was going to install was a new flexible stainless lower radiator hose because the one on the truck was rubbing on the frame. I used one of these on the AMX and it was very easy. The first problem was there is no petcock on the radiator, just a plug that is on the back side of the driver side tank, not on the bottom and there is nowhere for the antifreeze to go but all over the fender wells, steering box, cross members, bumper and any place it decides to go. I will be looking for a petcock with a hose fitting! After doing the best I could to clean up the mess I tried installing what should have been the 1 ¾” adapter that came with the new hose. It was not a 1 ¾” at all but a 1 5/8” and will not fit. I have Emailed the company got it from, probably a waste of time. Okay move on the project two. My transmission cooler is not here yet but I thought I would get the cooler lines from the transmission ready. The plan was to take off the lines from the radiator, cut them and re-flare them so I can extend them to the new cooler. That proved not to be easy at all. They came off the radiator fine but I could not get to the fittings on the transmission because those damn headers are in the way. So I thought maybe I could flare them while they were still on the truck… not gonna happen, just no room. So pull the headers, how hard could that be?……very hard. I started to remove the spark plugs only to find you can’t get a socket on two of them because of those damn headers. Same is true for the header to head bolts. Surprisingly enough the header flange bolts came off without a fight. Then of course you have to pull the starter to drop the header. It was a battle but I was eventually successful in getting the header out. The transmission lines are installed using an adapter screwed into the transmission and then 5/16 flares are screwed to those. Whoever tightened the flare fitting is much stronger than me or has a tool I don’t have because I could not break them loose with an open end wrench. So in frustration I cut the lines so I could use a socket and got them off. Of course now I need new lines. So the day is over, I installed nothing and an sitting in front of this computer drinking a beer feeling sorry for myself. LOL.

        March 7, 2016

        Work on the truck has slowed due to a bit of the flu. But I have managed to get a couple things accomplished. One thing I thought looked really bad in the engine bay was the radiator overflow tank. It was a plastic one sitting right in the middle of the passenger fender well. The hose was constantly getting pulled off any time you tried to access anything on that side of the engine. I picked up a tubular 3x9” stainless tank similar to what I have on my other two cars, fabricated a bracket that bolts to the battery box putting the tank just behind the passenger side radiator tank.

        Another thing I addressed was the lack of a petcock for the radiator. I found what was described as 1955 1956 1957 Chevy radiator petcock with hose. It did not give any size of the fitting but it wasn’t expensive so I took a chance, it fit perfectly. I did add a right angle fitting coming off the radiator to allow the hose to exit out the bottom of the engine bay.

        Since I had to pull the header to reconfigure my tranny lines I hit it with a wire brush on my angle grinder to see if it would clean up, it did. I had to use some sand paper on the places the wire wheel couldn’t get to but all in all it came out pretty nice. I have some POR-15 high temp paint I bought a while back but never used so I will see how that looks and holds up. But doing one header was stupid so I pulled the other one too.

        March 12, 2016

        After pulling the headers and cleaning them up the best I could I hit them with the POR-15 high temp paint. They look good compared to how they were but we’ll see how long the paint holds up. I will probably need help getting them reinstalled. For gaskets I chose Remflex graphite manifold gaskets and some FelPro for the collectors.

        March 13, 2016

        The transmission cooler finally arrived, apparently on a slow boat from Arizona. I made a bracket to mount it and hooked the lines to the cooler with a short section of hose that came with the cooler. I added some hangers along the length of the lines for support.

        March 14, 2016

        Today I crawled under the truck to see how I was going to move the brakes lines to get them away from the headers. Seemed simple but the 50 year old brake line fitting just would not let go. I ended up cutting them off. I plan on getting new brake lines for this anyway. I also noticed that the passenger side rubber hose going to the caliper has some noticeable cracks in it, that will have to be replaced, funny the driver side looks new. Before I go to the auto parts store to get the lines I thought I would drop the transmission oil pan since it seems like that is where my tranny leak is coming from. I can get a new gasket and hopefully fix that issue. But of course that wasn’t as easy as opening the drain plug and the unbolting the pan. The tranny cross member goes right under the rear pan bolts…who designed that!!!!!! Maybe this is just another thing the builder of this truck modified since the engine is pushed back several inches from stock, I will investigate that. Getting the cross member unbolted was a pain but getting it out is impossible from what I can see without removing the tranny. You can slide it back some to get to the pan bolts but getting it lined back up looks even more of a challenge. After cleaning up the gasket mating surface of the pan I saw some things I didn’t like. Summit sells a new pan at a very reasonable price so I ordered one.

        March 15, 2016

        In order to get the brake lines totally away from the headers I decided to completely reroute them. Right now the rear line runs from the MC, over the inside of the frame were it is very close to the header, then across the front cross member, up on the inside of the passenger side frame rail once again close to the header and hooks to a union. From there it runs along the inside of the frame rail to the rear end. I removed the rear line section that runs across the front cross member completely. I rerouted the section the runs on the inside frame rail so it crosses the truck on the rear cross member above the driveshaft then long the inside of driver side frame rail. Using another union I brought it up to the MC on the outside of the frame keeping it well away from the headers. For the front line I ran a new line from the MC on the outside of the frame rail keeping it away from the header and joined it to the “tee” that splits the front line to each caliper. I noticed was missing the clip that holds its fitting to the bracket at the hard line on the passenger side.

        March 16, 2016

        Sometimes even a blind hog……………………………………..While looking for a retaining clip that I knew was in the garage somewhere I found some braided stainless brake hoses I had bought for another project that never happened. And as luck would have it they actually fit. Well almost fit. On the driver side there was an adapter on the end of the hard line that was different than what was on the passenger side. I removed the adapter and the hose screwed right on the hard line. In the bag with the hoses were new copper washers and clips! Summit came through with the tranny pan and gasket. With a little maneuvering to support the transmission I was able to install the new pan. I put some fluid in to see if that was really the source of the leak, time will tell.

        March 23, 2016

        I seem to continue moving in a negative direction with this truck. I have added the tranny cooler and moved the brake lines but today I started taking things off again. I spent much of yesterday trying to get the AC and power steering belts to line up. The GM engineer that designed the mounting bracket for the PS pump must have been on drugs. There are three bolts in the sliding slots you have to loosen and two more that need to be removed to get the pump to move. I have ordered a better bracket! At least it looks better, assuming it works. After many tries I think I got the AC compressor lined up the test will be when the new PS pump bracket gets here. I cleaned up the PS pump and painted it with some semi-gloss black and ordered a new pulley. Since I am attempting to pretty up the engine I have decided to paint it the correct Chevy orange. That is going to be a little tough because I am not removing everything. But since the headers, alternator and PS pump are already off this seems like a good time. Gonna need a lot of tape and aluminum foil! I will be using POR-15 Engine Enamel so I can put it on with a brush, that will make painting around stuff that I am not painting easier.

        Today I cleaned up the header mounting surfaces on the heads and pulled off the valve covers. Then I thought I would clean up some engine wiring that looks shaky at best. Shaky is being kind. I found three wires that go nowhere and the main +12v line coming off the alternator to the car was joined with a wire nut. I also found several bare sections of wire simply taped over inside a bundle of wires. I hope I got this all straightened out. I moved the fuel line a little to get the filter off the valve cover.

        March 26, 2016

        Its engine cleaning and paint prep time. This truck it hard for me to work on because the engine sits so far back and low. I have the wheels off and the truck is as low as I can get it, but it is still hard to reach many spots. The POR-15 instructions say to get it very clean so I hit the whole thing with brake cleaner to get as much oil and grease off as I can. It also said if there is already paint on anything it needs to be scuffed before painting. The black paint the PO had put on came off rather easily but what factory orange there was underneath was not so easy. I tried the best I could to sand it all but was tough. The actual painting had it rough points too. Following the instructions I waited until the first coat was dry to the touch and applied a second coat. It certainly doesn’t look factory but its orange so I’m happy. Now to start putting this thing back together.

        March 30, 2016

        I Installed the new Z28 valve covers. The base of the air cleaner needs a hole for the valve cover breather hose fitting. While cruising around EBay I found an air cleaner base that has the correct fitting for this. The vendor is Auto Metal Direct which is 3 miles from my house. I went over and picked it up for less than their EBay price. The PCV valve comes off the opposite valve cover and will need connected to a carb base fitting. This carb’s aluminum spacer on the engine does not have that fitting but I bought a plastic carb spacer with the fitting. Being plastic this will also keep the carb a bit cooler. The AC compressor with its bracket was also installed today. One of the AC hoses is way too long. I will check on how much that would cost to make right. The alternator bracket that was on the truck may be the chromed stock version but it looks ridicules, just huge chunk of chrome on top of the engine that actually interferes with the AC compressor and heater hoses, so its history. I spent a great deal of time searching for a low mount for the alternator but ones that use a short water pump are rare. So I bought one that I thought was right, turned out it mounts on the driver side, that’s where my power steering pump is. I gave up the search and modified it using the main portion of the new one, a couple parts from the old mount and making a new support bracket. This is one strong alternator bracket but does require a belt change. Gates 7480 did the trick.

        April 6, 2016

        The past few days have been a lesson in while I’m at it. I am constantly seeing things I don’t like and things that are just wrong. I noticed a few more wiring issues mainly because the PO never soldered anything. I shortened a few wires, lengthened a few and cover all the engine wiring and the oil pressure line with Painless Power-Braid, this stuff is awesome…. expensive but awesome. I also shortened both heater hoses to get them the sit better and not interfere with anything else. I mentioned earlier that I moved the fuel line to get the filter off the valve cover. But I still wasn’t happy with the location. For the relocated fuel lines I used braided hose with AN fittings and a better filter. I also added a pressure regulator which I mounted on the fender well. The lines now come off the pump through a filter and on to the regulator. The output of the regulator runs behind the alternator and up to the carb inlet and a pressure gauge.

        April 7, 2016

        The nightmare of the power steering bracket is also being replaced with one that makes more sense. The new power steering pump bracket uses the two bottom holes on the front of the block and one of the motor mount bolts to mount it. There are two pieces sandwiched between two long spaces and then bolted to the block. The outside piece uses one bolt hold it to the pump. The back piece uses two bolts to hold it to the pump, one of which is the adjustment bolt. With the new bracket in place and the addition of a few washers to the AC compressor brackets I have the belt aligned pretty well. But finding a belt that will go on the pulleys and allow for enough adjustment to get the belt tight has proven to be difficult. But after three trips to the parts store I found one that works, Gates 7590.

        April 9, 2016

        I am about to call for help getting the brakes bled and the headers installed. So I thought I would do some perp work first. You know, just to make this go smoother and faster so my buddies aren’t to inconvenienced. First I checked the brake bleeders for their wrench size to be sure the front and back were the same…………..NOT! Well they sort of are. The driver side and the rear are the same and loosened right up. But the front passenger side is so messed up the 3/8” wrench just spins. No big deal I will just replace it. But getting it out was damn near impossible. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and tried with vice grips but it would not move. What the hell did the PO put these on with!!!?? After removing even more of the bleeder’s metal with the vice grips I put a 9mm box end on it the using a socket beat the wrench onto the bleeder. That finally worked. Getting the wrench off the bleeder is another story! I had a few new bleeders left over from other projects and had the M10x1.5 x 33mm I needed. I then opened all the bleeders and pumped the brakes until all the new empty lines and the front caliper filled up. Can’t wait to attempt to install the headers!!

        April 12, 2016

        Anybody that knows me well knows I hate to ask for help, not a good trait but that is just the way I am. So I decided to reinstall the headers myself, after all I got them out how hard would it be to put them back…………. I should have asked for help! I started on the driver side, just to avoid the starter issue. These headers do not have a single flange that bolts to the head, there are three individual ones. One for the front port, one for the two center ports and a third for the rear port. The problem I noticed right off was the one piece gasket did not line up with all the bolt holes, some adjustment will need to take place. Since the instuctions on the Remflex 2011 gasket reccomend triming them to fit I cut the gasket into three pieces for the three sections. With a little maneuvering and the use of my floor jack I got the header into the engine bay from underneath. Using a small screwdriver as a pry bar I was able the get the front and two center bolts started. I then removed the front bolt and slide the gasket in place and installed the front two bolts loosely and repeated that for the center port. This was going well. But the rear port bolts are damn near impossible to get to. I managed to get it’s front bolt started with the gasket. That’s where it all went bad! The rear bolt can only be accessed from underneath the car and there was no way I could get the bolt to line up with the hole in the head. Seems like that flange was not square to the head. After fighting with this for what seemed like hours I took the whole thing apart and started over, this time starting with that rear most bolt. After a few attempts and getting the bolt and gasket dropped on my face I finally got it started. The rest seemed easy actually easy, gotta remember this in case I have to pull these headers again. The passenger side will have to wait for another day…..I’m tired and I need a beer.

        April 13, 2016

        Before I start putting the passenger side header back in I thought I would address the starter. The PO never said he had any issues with heat soak but I know Chevys with headers often suffer from this due to the small wire feeding the solenoid. I fixed that in my Z by incorporating Ford’s starter relay method with a much larger wire feeding the Chevy starter solenoid. I also know high torque starters will also fix this. Because I had to pull the big stock starter to get the headers out and would have to pull the header to get that starter out I went with the much smaller and clockable high torque starter. This is my first attempt at putting an aftermarket starter in a car. I got on YouTube to find out exactly how to tell if I needed the shims that came with the starter. Turns out I had to add the inner shims to adjust the gear engagement depth and one on the block to adjust the teeth mesh depth. Now we’ll see if I can get the header back in without removing the starter, that would be nice.

        April 14, 2016

        My hopes were realized. The header does go on the passenger side with the high torque starter installed. Getting the head holes to line up was still an issue but not as bad as the driver's side. However getting the headers bolted to the exhaust was not so easy. This side fit much tighter than the driver’s side. After struggling trying to pull the exhaust back and get the gasket inserted I decided to drop the exhaust, at least loosen the hangers. But the exhaust guy was a little lazy and welded the hangers to the pipe and to the frame, no wiggle room here. I ended up splitting the gasket to get it around the collector and bolted it down. Hopefully there won’t be any leaks. When I pulled the headers I noticed the only seal between the header and the exhaust was RTV, not my choice for exhaust seals. The biggest problem was smacking my head on the bottom of the fender and opening a nice cut above my eye, not all that unusual for me! I will now go through my check list to see if I have done everything I need to do to start this puppy up again.

        April 19, 2016

        It is time to start the truck. I changed the oil and topped off all the other fluids. I dumped a little gas down the carb vents since the truck has been sitting for weeks. I hooked the battery up and turned the key. The engine turned over but would not even attempt to start. Plus the starter was making a horrible screeching when I released the key from the start mode. And if that wasn’t bad enough I had a gas leak. The gas leak turn out to be simply the filter and become unscrewed during all the test fits, didn’t even know it would come apart to change the filter inside. While investigating why the engine didn’t fire I found the +12v to the HEI distributor was gone! No clue why or how or where it is now but it was gone. Apparently it had fallen off during all the rewiring and I must have thought it was just another of the PO “spare” wires. As I remember it was not a GM connector but simply a spade lug…..figures. I couldn’t find the correct connector local so ordered one but in the mean time I used a spade lug and ran it to a switched 12V source on the fuse block. I hit the key and the engine roared to life. But now the screeching starter noise is still there after the engine is running. When I changed to the mini-starter I used all the shims that came with it and thought I was good to go. The starter gear does look a bit close to the flexplate so it looks like I need another internal spacer. Of course I can’t get that local either. I sent an order to Summit since they are semi-local and usually deliver within two days. There is also a coolant leak but I can’t find where it is coming from yet. So while I wait for all this stuff to arrive I added a few ground straps from the engine to the frame and the frame to the body, there were none on the truck before.

        April 20, 2016

        Summit came through in one day, gotta love that. I added one set of the new shims inside the starter which backed off the gear .05” and that fixed the screeching problem. With that out of the way I let the engine run for a while to see if I could find that mystery coolant leak. No leak, that’s weird. The only thing I can think of was left over coolant sitting on the cross member and frame that engine vibration dislodged…weird. But I did have several tranny cooler lines leaking at the fittings. I sort of figured that would happen and they were easy to tighten. The power steering pump fluid was low after reinstalling it so I filled it and burped the system.

        April 21, 2016

        Houston we have a problem! I ran the truck this morning for almost an hour to get the engine and header paint to cure. All went well, no issues at all. A few hours after shutting it down I tried to start it again. Nope, not going to start. The starter gear would engage the flex plate and just stay there not turning over the engine. Great, that starter didn’t last long! So I went to the parts store and bought a GM mini starter for over $100. It may be mini but it’s bigger than the one I had so it was a little tougher to get past the header. But worth it if it worked….it didn’t! Same result. I tried shimming it but no difference. Then I reinstalled the high torque one again. What is it they say about insanity “doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different outcome”. But this time I heard the starter gear engage and then there was that click, click, click of a weak battery. I charged the battery for a few hours and the truck fired right up. How did this happen? No clue I guess some investigation will be needed. Looks like maybe I messed up on some of the rewiring I did, but the basics of charging are all there.

        April 23, 2016

        I still have the dead battery thing looming but today we bled the brakes. After we sorted that out I started the engine and engaged the tranny to make sure the rear brakes actually worked. Hmmm, the tranny did not engage, WTF!!! Looking under the truck I was shocked to see the linkage to the shifter arm had fallen off………how the hell did that happen. I swear this truck hates me, I don’t think it understands I’m trying to make it better! After a little Google search I figured out how it was supposed to go back together and got it working. I don’t think it was put together correctly before. Oh yeah, the rear brakes work. One thing I have noticed while working on the engine is there are no ground straps anywhere. Given the wire nuts and bare wires I found that does not surprise me. I have installed two from the engine to the frame and one from the engine to the body. I will add more later.

        April 26, 2016

        I am still a bit concerned about the alternator charging. I start the engine but do not rev it, the battery reads 12.4v. I rev the engine and the battery jumps to 14.54v, its charging. This is normal when the sense wire on the alternator is not connected properly or its too close to the battery voltage to kick start the alternator, not a huge deal. However the ammeter in the gauge cluster is not working at all. But to tell the truth I don’t know if it ever worked. So I am still a little reluctant to take this thing out for a long trip. But I decided to run it around the block a few times. But when I tried to close the hood it was hitting something and would not close. The only thing it could be is the tranny cooler bracket……yep I guess I didn’t think that one through. An hour of fabricating and that is solved, but the road trip will have to wait for another day.

        April 27, 2016

        Its back on the road! I hooked my multi meter to the battery with leads long enough to sit in the seat. I fired up the truck and as before the battery was sitting right at 12.4v. I revved the engine, the alternator kicked in and the battery went to 14.47v. I monitored the battery while I drove around for a while, it never varied off the 14.47v. Again the ammeter is doing nothing. I’m pretty sure that thing is not wired correctly into the wiring harness. But for now I’m happy, when I change the gauge cluster I will do more investigating. Right now the only real issue is the steering gear input seal leaking. I watched a few videos on how to change the seal and it didn’t look too hard until they started talking about adjustments. The gear isn’t expensive but availability is. Nobody has this thing, not even rockauto.com. I may try to replace the seal if I can’t find a new gear soon.

        April 29, 2016

        I thought I had found a vendor with a steering gear but this morning I got a refund saying it was out of stock with no prospect of getting any soon, back to the search. I took a chance and ordered a newer version of this gear hoping it will work. I also ordered a new seal for the steerung gear I have now so if I have to I will attempt to rebuild the old one.

        April 30, 2016

        I have not tried to figure out why the ammeter is not working. That will have to wait until I install the new gauge cluster. I installed a volt meter and an idiot light below the dash, this is temporary. I have to rev the engine a bit to kick start the alternator but at least I know it is charging. I think I can remove the ammeter and install this voltmeter in its place, or maybe use the unused spot next to the oil pressure gauge, we’ll see.

        May 3, 2016

        Finally it is time to see how well all this work has gone. A road trip to our Tuesday cruise-in should be a decent test. All was going well until I encountered some traffic. While sitting in traffic the temperature started to climb. It got to 210 and leveled out so I guess that’s not so bad. As soon as I started to move it dropped back to 180. I don’t think the mechanical radiator fan is all that efficient. The trip back home was uneventful. But after sitting all night in the garage I noticed the tranny was still leaking and in an additional place, the speedometer cable fitting. Apparently that is a common issue with TH350 transmissions. Trying to find the parts to fix the leak local proved impossible so I ordered a new part on-line. There was also some evidence of the rear seal leaking too so I got an new one.

        May 10, 2016

        While I wait for the speedometer cable part to come in I pulled the driveshaft to replace the rear seal only to discover this driveshaft has no room in the slip yoke for movement of the suspension, not good. I also totally failed at trying to get the new rear seal installed so I pulled the extension housing. Of course the first attempt to get the seal in with the housing sitting on the bench worked perfectly. Since the extension was off I reinstalled the driveshaft just to make sure about the slip joint, I was. I measured several time and concluded I need to remove and 1 ¼”. I took it to my drive line shop to get fixed. One of the things I hate about how this truck is built is the transmission cross member interferes with getting to the rear tranny pan bolts. Cruising the interent I saw a tranny cross member from Southwest Speed that will fix that issue and it was not that expensive so I bought it. I also got an aluminum pan with a reusable rubber seal hoping I will have better luck with this one sealing.

        May 20, 2016

        I picked up the shortened driveshaft with a new u-joint and test fitted it to be sure it is right before I reinstall the extension housing. It has taken much longer to complete this project because I had a small physical problem but I finally got back under the truck. The driveshaft is in, the new pan and speedometer cable don’t leak leaving me with hopefully only one more major thing to fix, the steering gear leak. I have two options for this. I can either attempt to install a new front seal in my existing gear or just install a new one which will also involve changing the rag joint. I will attempt fixing the old one first.

        May 22, 2016

        But before I attempt the steering gear fix I think it is time to move inside to improve the look of the interior. Some of the things I plan on changing in order are a floor shifter, new gauge cluster with a tachometer, some sort of change to the door panels, some electrical work will be necessary since the wiring and fuse block look very scary, headliner, a tilt steering column and new steering wheel, a conversion to bucket seats and a custom console, sound deadener including the rear panel and finally carpet.

        May 25, 2016

        I pulled the door panels off and removed the silver paint. I will leave the main body of the doors silver but since the seats and carpet will be black I am painting the panels semi-gloss black. I have leftover black paint I used on the AMX hood and will use that hoping for the same finish I ended up with on the AMX. The trim that goes on the top side of the panels was painted silver too so I picked up new chrome ones.

        May 28, 2016

        I have picked up a new gauge cluster with a tachometer a while back. I swapped out the ammeter for a voltmeter and in the unused location in the cluster I installed a clock. Right now the water temp gauge in the truck is a mechanical one that doesn’t really fit but the new cluster has an electrical gauge so I will need to swap out the sending unit. The cluster took some fabrication to get the clock and voltmeter installed but it wasn’t too tough. Not sure when I can get all this installed in the truck.

        June 24, 2016

        I am a glutton for punishment! Okay, the wiring in this truck is really messed up but still it does seem to work. So why would I buy a complete wiring harness? Good question. Well for one thing I have already decided to put in a new gauge cluster with a voltmeter replacing the ammeter and a clock in the empty spot and most important a tachometer. But instead of using the printed circuit connection I have made my own harness for it that will tie into the new complete wiring harness easily with two eight pin Delphi connectors. The other reason I made doing this is the PO painted everything in sight including every connector and believe it or not the fuse block….yeah, the fuse block including the fuses! Plus forty nine year old wiring is never optimal so a complete change was the logical choice.

        But before I tackle a complete wiring project I need to address the slow leaking radiator. It has a small leak on the driver side where the tubes meet the tank. While running the truck on long city drives using the AC the water temp creeps up to 230 when sitting stopped in traffic. While that is not a huge temp I am not real happy with that. One thing is obvious, the position of the radiator fan. Because the PO mounted the engine 3 inches back from stock the fan is not inside the fan shroud making it not as efficient as it should be pulling air through the radiator. I got a new bigger radiator to replace the leaky one but I want to fix the fan issue at the same time. I am not a fan, no pun intended, of mechanical fans. I have been running a Ford Taurus fan in my Z for 5 years and am very happy with it. This time I got a dual Taurus fan and will come up with a way to control both fans, probably some aftermarket fan control unit. Getting the Taurus fan to fit in this truck was much more difficult than getting it in the Z. After some trimming some unusable plastic attachment flanges getting it mounted was not a huge problem but sealing it against the radiator was.

        June 30, 2016

        Work on the Taurus fan continues. I thought the fans were coming with pigtails, I was wrong, the description just said that the fan connectors had male two pin. I thought that meant that was a pigtail, should have asked I guess. Trying to find pigtail for these fans proved difficult. The Ford dealer came through with MOTORCRAFT WPT-1417, but they are very proud of these!!! Anyway I got some aluminum to make seals for the top and bottom of the radiator support. I used some soft rubber door garage seals I bought for another project but never used to seal the sides of the shroud to the tanks. This will help all the grille air come through the radiator.

        I also picked up a Derale 16789 dual fan controller. This controller will turn on the first fan at 185 and the second one at 195. But it will not support a Taurus fan so I will use it the turn on two 80A relays that will send +12v to the fans. I made a bracket for all that and mounted it to the passenger side fender well. It is getting a little crowded over there, LOL.

        July 9 2016

        OMG!!! Sometimes I do things that are just too stupid! I finally got this thing where I can start it again and check out the new cooling system. But as soon as the engine kicked over there was a really loud squeal and some smoke! I jumped out, took a quick look but did not see anything obvious so I shut it down. I looked at all the wiring and tested for anything hot……..nothing. As depression sunk in I left the garage to think about this before I started tearing things apart. The only thing I changed other than the radiator was the mechanical fan. I took the water pump belt off, started the engine, no squeal. I took the power steering belt off to discover I could not turn the water pump by hand. I actually measured the bolts that would hold the pulley on without the fan and its spacer by testing the depth they would need. But I did not realize the flange they bolted to has through holes so the bolts I used bottomed out on the water pump housing keeping the belt from turning the pump and squealing like a stuck pig! The bolts I used were 1” long, should have been 5/8”. Tomorrow I will get new bolts and try this again.

        July 10, 2016

        The new bolts fixed the water pump pulley problem. This new radiator and the Taurus fan woks great. Running without the AC the temp sits at 180, with the AC it is about the same but still creeps up to 200 in stop and go traffic. I can live with that.

        May 24, 2017

        After a rather long time I have decided to get back to modifying the truck. I have a list of stuff to do, some of it are fixes but mostly it is modifications. Ever since I got the truck I have wanted to lower it, not to the weeds but lower than it is now. So I picked up some 2.5” drop front spindles and 3” rear lowering springs. My concern is tire clearance especially in the rear. If I have clearance I may add some lowering blocks to bring it down a little more. But as usual I immediately ran into a self-induced issue. I ordering the wrong front spindles. I thought I ordered the right ones from Summit but in fact I ordered ones for a 71-72 C10 not a 67. After some conversation on the truck message board I need to take some inventory of what is on the truck now before I head off to Summit for replacements for my mistake. Hopefully there is a part number on the existing spindles.

        May 25, 2017

        Today I managed to get the old spindles off. Not an easy job for a half blind, broken shoulder 71 year old but it is done. My shoulder is paying the price! Still no clue what they are but I’m leaning toward 71-72. One of the upper ball joint boot is trashed so that will have to be addressed.

        May 26, 2017

        Well I was wrong. I called Moog tech support (800-325-8886) today to get dimensions on the upper ball joint shaft. The difference in the 67 and 71 is the small end of the taper on a 67 upper (6024) is .588 and the 71 (6124) is .551. The big ends are the same .702. So what is on the truck now are 67 parts and stock height spindles from who know where. One of the upper ball joints already had a torn boot and the rest don’t look that great so I have decided to go to Summit and exchange the drop spindles for the correct 67 ones and get new 67 upper ball joints. While I wait for parts I will move to the back and see what I can mess up there, LOL.

        May 27, 2017

        As usual I got off on a tangent at the rear of the truck. My plan today was to at least pull the springs. I did get the shocks removed from the bottom mount and the trac bar pulled off, I will be replacing that with an adjustable one. Lots of rusty bolts but I managed to get them all off without too much effort. Then I decided this was a good time to take off the trailer hitch the PO had installed, this proved to be a major job. The PO had installed this hitch between the truck frame and the new fuel tank. He used bolts and nuts but I could not get to the bolt heads because the fuel tank is in the way. Fortunately I was able to get all the nuts off and drive the bolts free. Some of those bolts will have to fall out of the frame on their own, LOL. But that did not free the hitch. This truck has a rear roll pan which he made a cut in for the hitch. Instead of bolting the roll pan on it is welded on so the hitch would not slide out. I removed one of the fuel tank straps and beat on the hitch sideways to get the passenger side free of the tank. But the driver side was still captured. I tried to remove the other tank strap but once again I could get to the bolt head. I beat on the hitch a lot trying to get it free and all of a sudden it fell out, YAHOO. No clue how that happened! The spring removal will happen on another day, I’m tired and need beer!

        May 29, 2017

        I got some things partially completed today. I installed the new upper ball joints, no issues there. I put on the drop spindles and connected the tie rods and sway bar with the drop brackets. I need to get some new cotter pins for the lower ball joints and the tie rods. Then I can reinstall the brakes and the front will be done.

        I was about to call it a day but decided to pull off the rear coils. Yeah, that did now go well at all. I read the proper procedure to accomplish this and it would have worked great if it weren’t for rusted bolts. I was hoping the builder of the truck had taken all the suspension apart but it doesn’t look like he did. It looked like the springs have been on there since 1967. The truck is on frame jack stands and the shocks and trac bar are removed. I jacked up the rear end to take weight off the springs. I had already sprayed penetrating stuff on all the bolts. I driver side bottom nut and bolt put up a fight but it eventually came free. I dropped the rear end and the spring was loose, hanging on the upper bolt. The upper bolt is going to be a problem. You really can’t get to the nut in the frame, too much stuff in the way. I may have to ask for advice on those. The bottom nut and bolt on the passenger side was impossible to loosen. The head of the bolt was so messed up I could not get a socket to get a good grip and eventually it rounded off. A few minutes with a grinder and it was out. I have ordered all new bolts for this, I am not dealing with rusted bolts and the tiny cost of new ones.

        May 30, 2017

        The C10 message board confirmed what I already knew about freeing the upper bolts on the coil springs. Somehow get a ¾”wrench on the upper nut inside the frame and a ¾” socket on the bolt inside the spring and turn it for what seemed like an hour on each side. Fortunately no totally frozen nuts and no rounded off heads. So the springs are out.

        Turns out that was the easy job for the day. My plan all along was to refinish the wood bed floor and exchange the painted rails for polished stainless ones. The PO had used Loctite on the bolts holding down the rails. Trying to loosen them resulted in rounding the square holes in the rails making removal a nightmare. I basically had to cut almost half of the bolts and rails to get them out. Other than time and work it is not that big of a deal since it is all getting replaced anyway. I did use an air wrench in my attempt to remove the nuts, that might have cause the problem, but I’m blaming the Loctite! I got all but three of the boards out and am exhausted, tomorrow is another day. I think getting the springs back in will be easier without the bed floor in.

        May 31, 2017

        Man, I’m getting old. A good night’s sleep did not help yesterday’s exhaustion. But I carried on, at least for the morning. I got the last of the boards out of the bed. I now know why one of my buddies told me it would be easier to remove the bed, there are some nut nearly impossible to get to. I also screwed up when I cut the welds on one of the side trim pieces thinking it was something the PO had done. Now I’m going to have to find a new one but will probably bolt it on rather than having it welded. I also cleaned up the wiring for the tail light and removed some more wire nuts the PO had installed.

        The new rear shock re-locators came today. I was a little disappointed to read the instructions telling me I had the remove the rivets holding the top shock mount on. I thought this was a total bolt-on. I will have to borrow an air chisel, never used one of those, this should be interesting.

        June 2, 2017

        After all the time looking at YouTube videos about removing rivets I went another direction for the rear shock mounts. I could have done it the standard way but the heads of these particular rivets are under the frame and not really in a spot that would be very accessible and I hate working over my head. I ended up grinding down the small end of the rivets flush with the frame and used a punch to drive them out, worked great. I have started cleaning up the frame and cross members for Por-15. I removed the welds and rust that was starting on the bed side walls under that angle rails and a little of the paint above that area. I think I may use bed liner to cover the side walls instead of repainting them.

        June 3, 2017

        A few days ago I installed the front sway bar but didn’t notice with the drop spindles the end links hit the tie rod ends so I can’t turn the wheels. That is not a good thing! After some research I decided to eliminate the spacers on the end links and reinstall the old frame mounts to get the bar to clear the tie rods and make the bars more parallel.

        June 5, 2017

        I got the front suspension cotter pins in place and installed the hubs and rotors. But I ran into small problem when I attempted to put the calipers back on. It looks like I need to compress the pistons in order to get the pads to clear the rotors. I’m thinking a “C” clamp will work but I want verification on that theory. I then tried to remove the lower shock mount to install the relocators but I don't have the right socket for that so that will have to wait until I get the 1 1/16" impact socket.

        While I wait for some more parts to arrive I have started refinishing the bed floor boards. This is going to take some time. The plan is to remove all the clear coat the PO put on, paint the bottom well with black paint, use a black transparent stain on the top exposed area and then clear coat everything and polish the exposed areas. I will be using polished rails and edge angles.

        June 6, 2017

        I sanded and painted one more bed floor board, told you this was going to take some time! I also removed the rear roll pan that the PO had cut a large section out for the trailer hitch which I had removed. I had debated on fixing the existent one or getting new one. Getting the old one out was not that easy. It was welded in on the fender ends and it was tough cutting anything in there to cut the welds loose but I finally got it out. A new one with a license plate box for only $123 delivered was a no brainer. It does have some exposed spot welds that will need to be smoothed but that’s okay. I found a little surface rust starting after I pulled out the old pan. I sanded all the paint off and applied POR-15 to that whole area.

        June 7, 2017

        I painted another bed floor board this morning, only 5 more to go! I test fitted the new rear roll pan only to discover the rear cross member needs to be notched to clear the license plate box. Okay, with that accomplished I tested fitment again. Closer but still not quite there. The whole thing needed to be slide to the right about 1/16” to get the top mounting screws to line up but the rear fender prevents that. Not being a body man I took that 1/16” off the roll pan rather than trying to adjust the fender. Only the little extension needed to be cut. Then since I can’t weld and didn’t want this thing welded anyway I made two brackets to bolt the ends to the bed sidewalls. I painted those brackets with POR-15. I then started the fill on the roll pan’s spot welds with RAGE GOLD.

        The old spring retainer caps and bolts were not in the best condition so I got a new kit from Classic Parts. I sanded down the mounting areas for the rear springs and hit it with POR-15. While I was in the area I noticed a leftover, unused exhaust hanger so I used the grind off the rivet and drive it out method to get rid of it. When I looked in the frame to get the rivet head I saw a wad of taped wires. Once again the PO was up to his usual tricks. This time he didn’t even bother with the wire nuts he simply twisted the wires together and wrapped them with electrical tape. Looks like I have some more wiring to fix, bummer!

        June 8, 2017

        Couldn’t do much today, other priorities ya know. I did get the rear roll pan brackets mounted and sanded off the first coat of filler for its spot welds. While I was under there I slapped some more POR-15 on the frame and cross members. Of course I got another bed floor board painted. I also managed to get a little garage cleaning done.

        I am noticing more areas where rust is starting to rear its ugly head. The tops of the inside of the rear fenders and the bottom rear of the cab are going to need treatment. I will probably end up pulling the fenders to make fixing them easier and at that point the bed may come off too. Man, all I wanted to do was lower the truck a little, LOL!!!

        June 11, 2017

        Kind of a busy weekend with not too much time for truck stuff. I got the rest of the floor boards painted, now I am waiting on the black stain to arrive. I fixed the messed up wiring for the tail lights and added one for the license plate light. Ever since I sprayed penetrating oil to pull the spring retainer bolts I have noticed some liquid on the ground at the end of the right side axel. I thought it was just penetrating oil dripping out of the frame. But now I realize it is brake fluid, dammit. I looks like the fitting is leaking and it seems to be as tight as it is going to get. At least it is the short brake line but I really don’t need another issue to deal with.

        June 12, 2017

        OMG!!!!! Since I have seen some rust starting on the truck I thought I would pull the rear fenders and the bed to get to and treat the rusted areas. This seemed like an easy task but no-o-o-o-o! Aside from the 3 million bolts on the fenders the PO seemed to have a liking for red Lok-Tite which he applied in several areas. I had the use a huge breaker bar and bust the bolts to get them out. There is no major rust just where two pieces of body touch each other and trap moisture you can see it starting. I will use POR-15 and probably some seam sealer when I put it all back together. And NO LOK_TITE! One thing that surprised me was none of the cross member were welded to the frame, don’t know if that is how these truck were built. I will attack the inside of the fenders first before I pull the bed, just not enough room in the garage for a completely disassembled truck.

        Oh yeah, I replaced the leaking brake line, crazy thing fell apart when I unscrewed the fitting at the brake. A smart man would take that as a clue and replace them all!

        June 14, 2017

        I sanded the bed cross members and applied POR-15 to both sides. I did a little sanding on the floor boards to fix some mistakes I made the first time. The stain came in so as soon as I can get the garage clean enough I will attempt to stain them black. I also sanded off the e-coat on the back side of the roll pan and applied two coats of POR-15. I still have a little body work to do on the outside but then it will be ready for paint.

        June 15, 2017

        I am still chasing potential rust. Today I did some more body work on the rear roll pan and took off all the paint on the bed step support brackets and applied more POR-15. Next will be the bottom of the steps themselves and then the inside of the rear fenders. But I will still have the bed walls to deal with. Man, I wish I had a media blaster! I also installed the upper shock relocation bracket. I wired the license plate light, that should end the wiring on this truck.

        June 16, 2017

        I got all the bed floor boards stained. It looks pretty good, I’m not sure if I will add a second coat. After some research I have concluded that you do not want to use automotive clear coat for stained wooden floor boards since it will cause the stain to lift and bubble. The recommended coating is marine grade varnish, like Sikkens Cetol Marine Gloss Finish. I want to wait to give the stain time to fully cure before adding the varnish. I thought I would address the bed steps and remove the paint from the bottom and appy some POR-15. That proved to be more difficult than I was thinking of course. I got one done but ran out of time and energy so the second one will half to wait.

        June 17, 2017

        I got the other step sanded and POR-15 applied. After one more try at filling the spot welds on the roll pan I shot some etching primer on it. As usual my fill skills are lacking, I have more work to do. The next big project is to remove what undercoating and paint there is on the inside of the rear fenders and treat them with POR-15. A little surprise was found on the driver fender. It looks like in its former life this truck had the fender mounted spare tire. There is a huge patch panel where that tire carrier would have been. I took off the fender braces and cleaned them and tried hitting the fender with my abrasive wheel. The undercoating somewhat came off but there is a layer of goo that did not. Gonna have to come up with a different plan!

        June 18, 2017

        Well that was fun! Today was rear fender inside treatment day. As it turned out there wasn’t much undercoat inside these fenders, in fact there was barely any paint. I looks like the PO did apply silver paint but did not clear coat it. This could explain the surface rust that was starting. I used an abrasive wheel on my angle grinder and moved it around a lot so as not to generate any hot spots. I followed that with 60 grit sand paper and was able to get one fender clean. I took a lot of POR-15 to cover it but one down another to go.

        The plan when I got up this morning was to sand and paint one of the inner fenders. I accomplished that but then I went back into the garage and thought “do I really need to call someone to help get this bed off”. I checked out what held what together and decided I can disassemble this by myself which will make it easier to work on. I pushed the whole bed toward the rear to get better access to the 10 bolts holding the front panel to the sides and the rear cross member fell out! It was just slide into the rear side caps. No bolts hold this in place other than the bed mount bolt? I find that hard to believe, then again it was 1967. Well, it is all off the truck and there is some rust starting on the flange at the bottom of the front panel, that should be an easy fix. I can also address the floor side angle rails I took out easier since the sides panels of off the truck.

        June 19, 2017

        More sanding and POR-15, this time on the rear cross member and the rear bed panel where it meets with the side panel front caps and both sides of the flange where the wood floor sits. I broke out the giant breaker bar and got the stock bottom rear shock mounts off and the new bottom rear shock re-locators mounted. The springs and the adjustable panhard bar are next.

        June 20, 2017

        Not the plan this morning but I started on the second fender. This one is going to be harder. I attacked the mounting surface first and discovered some filler and several welds which were not threated and were rusting. At the front bottom there is a small patch panel again with rusty welds. But I got it down the bare metal and applied POR-15. The hold the PO drilled for a fuel filler was not even painted and had rust on it as well as on spot under the bezel. There seems to be much more undercoat on this fender so removing that and the surface rust will take more time.

        I thought since I was too tired to continue sanding on the fender I would install the new lowering springs, how hard could that be. I have new springs and retainer kits to put them in, everything I need….maybe not. While the retainer kit has nuts, bolts, washers and lock washers there is a problem. The top went together without a hitch, but the bottom immediately presented it’s first problem. I jacked up the diff to raise the tailing arm to meet the spring. Not gonna happen. Since I pulled off the bed there is no weight and the whole truck started to go up, hmmmmm. What do I have that is heavy or am I going to have to call my fattest friend? I sat on the rear corner of the frame and jacked up that trailing arm and the spring met, cool. So I don’t need that much weight. I put both my rear wheels on the frame and that worked, almost. The kit has washers and lock washers but the washer is too small in my opinion the cover the hole in the trailing arm. I have some big, thick washers that came out of the truck but I think they are for the bed mounts and probably are not grade 8. Plus with those washers and the lock washers the bolt is not long enough to hit the nut on the retainer, gr-r-r-r-r-r. But it is all on, looks like I need a trip to the hardware store before I torque all this for real.

        June 21, 2017

        I got some slightly longer bolts for the lower spring mount this morning. But the only washers they had for the ½” bolts were in my opinion too small so I made some. I then attacked the second rear fender and as feared it was much tougher than the first one. It had more undercoating and several patch panels including the huge one to replace the stock spare tire carrier. After three hours it was clean so I applied the POR-15. The only panels left to “fix” are the bed sides.

        Then I put on the rear shocks with the shock relocation kit. Right off the bat we have an issue. The top relocator bracket bolt where the shock mounts must be put in from under the cross member or the shock will hit it. You’d think they would mention that in the instructions! After that was fixed the next issue was on the bottom mounting. The shocks were fully extended which meant it’s bolt hole was below the shock mount hole. I used a jack on the shock to get it lined up. Two issues here. I am not the strongest guy in the world with a bad shoulder and could not compress the shock by hand. I have lowered the rear suspension so I might need new shocks because of that. We’ll see if there are any issues once we’ back on the road. The last part to go in is the panhard bar. I bought an adjustable one, just because I like adjustability. But It won’t slide into the bracket on the frame. Weird thing, the one I took out won’t go back in neither. There must be a trick the this, I will try again when I am not so tired.

        June 22, 2017

        I managed to get the panhard bar on but it was a battle. And just to complicate things it hits on the exhaust pipe and is very close to the fins on the diff cover, some adjustments will be needed. I worked on the driver bed side. I sanded all the paint off the outside which will be under the fender and coated it with POR-15 instead of the black paint the PO had put on. But when I tilted it upside down I saw rust starting on the rolled part of the top. I sanded down what I could get too and applied POR-15 but I could see the rust was working its way around the roll. Hopefully what I have done will stop and progression. Since I removed the angle bed floor trim from the bed sides I need to come up with a replacement. All the welds were hidden by the fenders except for two toward the front so I think I can bolt on a replacement. I have polished angles to replace the painted ones I pulled off but I do not want to bolt those on. I’m thinking using angle under the floor that will be more like a foundation for the floor to sit on. It is finally time to start emptying the dining room of truck parts. I took all five of the bed floor braces and attempted to figure out where they all go. You know how you’re supposed to take pictures? I never think of that until it is too late. But I think I got it right based on the position of the pads and bed mounting holes. I do not know where the small one goes yet but I think it only bolts to the floor itself. I need these on so I can mount the side panels to determine where my support angle piece will go.

        June 23, 2017

        All this sanding has taken its toll on my old body. I flipped the driver side bed panel over, ground off the remnants of those angle welds, sanded off all the rust and paint which sits below the floor line and treated it with POR-15. The silver paint above the floor line is not in very good shape but I’m still not sure how I will handle that but I’m thinking spray or roll on bed liner and a rail cap for the top.

        June 25, 2017

        I got the outside of the passenger side bed panel sanded and coated and started on the inside. No surprises here just the same procedure as the driver side. While I wait for paint to dry I started with my plan for the angle bed side supports. I cut notches in all the cross members to allow the angle pieces to sit against the side panels and the wood floor to rest on them. I will probably screw the angles to the cross members after the floor in positioned. As fate would have it I was thinking I should probably change the other rear brake line since I had that weird failure on the passenger side. Sure enough I barely bumped the longer line this morning and it started leak right at the fitting exactly like the passenger side did.

        June 26, 2017

        Why can’t this truck let me do what I intend to do? My plan was to lower the truck and refinish the bed floor. But it has gone way past that. Just when I think I have turned a corner something unforeseen pops up, like the brake lines. Okay, I replaced the short passenger side hard line and now the driver side started leaking too, what the hell is going on here! Everything up front was upgraded last year but nothing in the rear. So I figured I probably should replace the hose in the rear as well. But trying to get it to disconnect the main line fitting came apart just as the other two had. This think whoever put these on over tightened everything. The only thing salvageable is the tee fitting! So its off the the parts store to get a new hose and two brake lines. I got all the parts I needed to fix the brake line issue and installed them. This time I used the clamps on the rear axle to hold down the brake lines, something the PO did not do. Makes me wonder how much vibration occurred that may have weaken the fitting at the drums.

        June 29, 2017

        I have some down time waiting for parts so I decided to address something that has bugged me since I bought the truck. The body work on this truck is marginal at best. That is the reason for all the potential rust issues I am dealing with. The tailgate “fixes” is driving me crazy. There are two welds which I assume patched some holes but the builder didn’t bother the grind them flush before he painted. Of course they are on the inside corners where the outside frame meets the raised panel part and not that easy to work on. I was able to get my small grinder in there and smooth the welds. But upon close inspection I see the same seam rust issues. I used a small file to dig out any paint in the seam and slapped some POR-15 along the seam hoping it will penetrate and stop any further rust, probably not. But I am going to paint the lower portion on the inside panel black and get some black vinyl letters for the logo. I will probably treat the front bed panel to the same paint scheme.

        June 30, 2017

        I sort of fixed the scars on the back of the cab I created when the bed front panel fell off the bed unattended, stupid me. The paint I used matches very well but because it is a clear coat paint job I really don’t know how to blend it. The areas will be hidden for the most part but I would like it to be as good as possible. Hopefully some sanding and buffing will help. The tailgate project is progressing. I got the filler primer on and sanded. I re-taped and applied another coat and plan on putting on the satin black tomorrow. The block letters came today so that will be another adventure. If this works out I will do the same thing on the front panel. I have started the temporary assembly to figure out exactly where the side panel angle brackets will sit. First I put all the cross member supports in place. Then I bolted on the step hangers to the front cross member. With any luck I can put on the sides and mark where the angle pieces will go, then take it all apart again.

        July 1, 2017

        The tailgate came out fairly decent for someone that is not really a painter, I will wait a few days before attempting the vinyl lettering. I started on the front panel. I’m making a little change for the front panel. I am still making the outside portion black but I am also making the entire inner portion black as well since there are no letters to break up the silver.

        July 2, 2017

        I got the front panel all taped up, applied etching primer last night and applied the filler primer today. I will let that sit overnight and paint the black tomorrow. Patience has never been one of my qualities so I put the vinyl letters on the tailgate today. After reading some reviews on how to do this I had a plan and it all went well. The scariest part was getting the letters free from the sheet, LOL. We’ll see how it looks in the morning after all the soapy water evaporates.

        July 3, 2017

        This was a short day. I got the front bed panel painted and some final work on the tailgate. I put the wheels back on and dropped the truck on the ground for the first time. It is kind of hard to tell without the bed on but it is lower for sure. The front tires look fine, the real test will be if the rear ones clear the fenders. I made a way to put the front panel closer to where it will sit to make it easier to install by myself. But then I realized I couldn’t get it out after the panel is bolted on. Time for a better plan!

        July 4, 2017

        The plan for today was to get the bed mounted temporarily to test fit the side angle pieces. Getting the sides installed by myself was not easy. They are heavy, awkward and the way they fit requires almost perfect alignment. But I eventually got them and the front panel installed, not without some bruising and blood lose. I had the trim the cross members to allow the angles to fit flush with them. I then drilled holes to mount the angles to the side panels. These mounting bolts will be inside the fender wells so they will not be noticeable. Of course all this work will have to be done again since I need the remove the side panels for finish body work an paint.

        July 5, 2017

        Very little accomplished today, I must be getting lazy! I sanded on the roll pan and did what I hope is the final fill on the welds. I sprayed filler primer on it and it looks like it is ready for paint.

        July 6, 2017

        When I install the bed floor angles there were several places I want to put bolts but because the frame it too close I couldn’t get my drill in there so the sides had to come off. The angles also hang down below where the sides are cut up for the wheel clearance I assume. I put the wheels back on and could see no interference. I drilled the rest of the angle mounting holes, cleaned up the angle and using 3M panel adhesive glued and screwed them in place….on one side panel.

        July 8, 2017

        I got the second side panel done and have started fixing some of the dents and unused holes. When I install the new adjustable panhard bar I noticed it was very close to the diff cover. It is 1 1/4” while the stock one is only 5/8”. Now that I dropped the truck down on its wheels the bar is touching. I took it off and ground down the top of the fins but now it is touching the body of the cover. Apparently the cover is taller than a stock one. I was hoping the bar was solid so I could machine it down to clear but it is hollow with welded on bungs for the adjusters. I put the stock one back on for now.

        July 9, 2017

        I hate body work. I hated it on the Z and still do. It is tiring, dirty, time consuming and I am not very good at it. But I am persistent so I will continue. The first problem is I am dealing with crap parts so I can only make it so good, but I don’t want to shell out well over $1000 for new stuff either. I have to keep reminding myself I am not building a show car, this is a driver. But I still want it to be cool and different. The bed sides are getting close to paint.

        July 10, 2017

        Research, the answer to not buying the wrong part is research. I know this but keep making the same mistakes. This time it is the panhard bar. When a vender produces and advertises a part they should bring up things like this will not fit if using an aftermarket diff cover. The message board brought this to my attention and told me about a bar that will work and actually has better geometry. This one hooks to the stock frame mount and then to the bottom of the opposite trailing arm with a custom bracket. Of course it cost over twice as much but it is on sale right now so at least I save $13.

        July 11, 2017

        While I wait for the panard bar to arrive I thought I would get creative and do a lot of work for nothing more than looks. The bed sides on this truck are completely flat and have no character. The front panel and the tailgate have stamped embosses on them that look very cool. I am going to attempt to replicate those embosses on the inside of the side panels using 1/8 x 2 steel strips. I will use 3M panel adhesive and some of the fender bolts to bond them to the sides, I have had very good luck with this stuff. I will then paint the panels the same way I did the front panel with the main panel black, the rolled top will remain silver and the strips will be silver.

        July 19, 2017

        I am still playing around with body work but the panhard bar arrived so I changed gears and installed it. This thing is a beast for sure and I think it will do a better job than the one in the stock location. Pulling off both axel u-bolts was a little scary but I got it done. I have a couple small complaints about this bar. I wish they had adjustors on both ends to make the bar adjustable without removing it from its mounts. It took me several tries to get it centered. And the hole for the nut and bolt that holds the bar to the trailing arm bracket is too close to the bracket to get a socket on, trying the get any torque with two open ends is a pain.