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January 16, 2018
Bumpers? We don’t need no stinkin’ bumpers! The rear already had no bumper and I added a new roll pan so I am going to add a front one as well. I think it will make the truck look cleaner. Of course the pan came with no instructions. There is some modification needed to install a roll pan. I already knew I had to cut 2” on an angle off the frame where the stock bumper mounts. After I got the bumper off the first thing I noticed when attempting to position the pan was the bolts that hold the radiator deflector on are in the way. Then I had to decide if the pan should sit above or below the deflector, I went with above basically sandwiching the pan between the deflector and the grille frame. I still had to massage the ends of the pan a little. The pan is mounted as good as I can get it. I still need to add a couple supports from the pan ends to the fenders.
January 23, 2018
The radiator deflector was put on wrong by the PO. One of the mounting nuts is broken off inside the radiator support and I can’t fix that. The hood latch assembly hangs down below the deflector preventing it from sitting even with the frame where is should be. I ended up cutting a slot in the defector for the hood latch assembly and making a patch to cover over it. I added some brackets to the deflector to attach it to the radiator support. At this point I am ready to paint the roll pan as soon as the weather warms up.
January 25, 2018
Back to painting! I got the primer laid on today. At least this part is small, it took longer to clean the gun than it did to paint the roll pan! Tomorrow will sand the primer with 600 and apply the silver and clear.
January 26, 2018
This is the last day of decent weather for a while, rain and cold returns to Georgia tomorrow. So I need to get the painting on this roll pan done today. I fired but the heater and by noon it was a little over 65 degrees, perfect. I put on two coats of silver, waited a couple hours and put on three coats of clear. Time for assembly!
January 31, 2018
I finally got the roll pan painted and installed. Pretty happy with the results. No clue how this is supposed to be installed but I sandwiched it between the grill and the radiator deflector and used the tabs on the ends to bolt it to the fenders. I am thinking about getting new stainless grille surrounds and headlights bezels but they are crazy expensive. The PO painted all that body color and it was not done well.
September 16, 2018
The Stealth Tailgate Latches was even tougher to get the courage to do. First you have to drill a 5/8” hole in each end of the top rail and 3/16” holes in the front of the rail to secure the latch assembly. The hardest part was the 3/16” x 1” slots for the latch knobs to operate. The stainless knobs that attach to the latch assemblies through these slots allow the spring loaded assemblies to engage the bedsides. You close the tailgate, release the assemblies which leave marks in the bedsides for the 7/16” holes where the latches will engage. All in all this system is pretty cool. All that cutting and drilling made a bit of a mess on the tailgate. I cleaned up all the bare metal and shot it with POR-15.
September 23, 2018
Too much time on my hands, too much time on my hands!!!! I bought some halogen headlights with H4 Bulbs and built in LED turn signals. The plan is to eliminate the grille mounted turn signals and give the front a new look. After I got the grille out I realized the sheet metal insert on the bottom is different than the top. The bottom has a lowered areas where the turn signals mount. So I need to add some metal to those areas to make the opening smooth. If someone made these inserts I would just buy another top one but nobody does. The other thing I want to change is remove that huge Chevy emblem on the center bar, it is just too big and I think it looks like a brand after thought. Of course it will take some body work to smooth the mounting area since Chevy made it with some bumps, I assume to hold the emblem straight.
September 25, 2018
Rust, why is it always rust that slows down a project? Back in the day if an area didn’t show GM did not paint it, I suppose that is true of all manufacturers. It took a lot of time to sand the entire back of the grille body and the associated parts to get to clean surfaces and then paint it all with POR-15. But I am now ready for body work on the pitted areas of the grille body. It isn’t that bad except for a few pinholes that were rusted through.
September 27, 2018
After a couple days of sanding off three layers of paint, looks like the truck was originally red. I got the pinholes fixed and am ready to paint. So once again the garage needs a good cleaning. First I will shoot some etching primer and fix any low and high spots I find. My original plan was to paint all this the way it was, black for the grille inserts and silver for the grille body. But while talking to my gearhead neighbor he asked if it was all going to be silver. I had never ever thought about that, but after looking on-line and seeing many trucks painted one color I decided to go that way. Plus it will certainly be easier.
September 30, 2018
The headlight conversion as always with aftermarket products was not simply plug and play. The headlight buckets had to be modified for the LED harness and the H4 bulb leak proof shield. There was a little rust starting too, so out came the POR-15. The headlights work fine but I need to get a relay harness for better performance and reliability. I took me a while to remember how the original turn signals and parking lights were wired. Even though the vendor claims these lights have parking and turn signals there are only two wires for the LEDs, signal and ground. So I wired them up so the turn signals work, never run the truck with just the parking lights on anyway. The body work on the grille inserts is done so I will move on to the grille itself and hopefully get all its imperfections taken care of.
October 2, 2018
The main grille body had numerous defects due to the PO’s lack of skills or maybe he just didn’t care. There were a lot of pock marks I assume from rust that the PO at least had removed but didn’t finish the body work. I sanded a lot, filled them with Rage Gold, and then applied my new best friend glazing putty. After this dries overnight I will spray the body and the inserts with urethane primer and follow that with the silver and clear.
October 4, 2018
I hit the grille body and inserts with urethane primer. I will let that dry overnight before putting on the silver and clear.
October 5, 2018
This morning I once again laid on some silver paint, this time on all the grille components. I put on three coats of base, let that setup and then applied the tougher part, four coats of clear. All in all it came out pretty nice. There is one place however on one of the edges that looks pretty rough. I thought I had all those spots fixed, apparently not. I will allow this to totally cure before putting it back together and installing it back on the truck.
October 6, 2018
I riveted the grille inserts back on the grille. Then I installed the surrounds so the grille in now finished except for color sanding which I will wait a few weeks for the clear to harden fully.
Now that I have the grille finished it is time to get back to the tailgate. As with most of this truck the paint and bodywork while fairly new was not done very well. After drilling and cutting on the tailgate to install the hinges and latches I decided I would fix some of the flaws in the bodywork and paint. I am keeping the inside part I painted black and getting new vinyl lettering on the back. I will repaint the entire frame work fixing some of the poor welds and paint runs the PO did. I had trimmed off the stock chain bosses when I installed the latches but now I want to completely remove all traces of those bosses. Not an easy job with my limited tools, these things are ¼” and are welded on both sides of the tailgate frame. But using a cut-off wheel, my air hammer and mini-grinder I finally got them off. To fill the holes left I made some patch plates and used 3M 08116 to bond them to the outside of the tailgate frame. I used my mini-grinder to knock down the obnoxious welds at the top of the inner frame, must have been a poorly done rust repair. The plan is to smooth out any other infections I find and contour some areas like where the top meets the inside frame and the spot welds. Then I will repaint the complete frame.
October 9, 2018
I received the relay harness for the H4 headlights today. There is only minor wiring need to install this. A +12v to the battery for the headlight power, hook one of the existing headlight connectors to the harness and plug in the new harness headlight connectors. The other existing headlight connector is not used. But of course there was a problem. This harness is not long enough to connect the driver side headlight mainly because of the way I have to run the harness. I was able to find a 20” extension harness to solved this.
October 12, 2018
Next project on the tailgate is bodywork. Lots of sanding ahead…YUK! In hindsight I probably would have been ahead if I had just bought a new tailgate. But I made a lot of modifications to this one with the hinges, latches and removing the chain bosses and don’t really want to tackle that again. There were a lot of dents and poorly ground welds I had to address. But this isn’t a show truck and I have done the best I can. It is finally ready for paint. I have to figure out how I am going to hang this beast in order to get paint on all six sides!
October 16, 2018
I used six feet of ½” threaded rod pushed through the new latch holes at each end of the tailgate with nuts to tighten it to the tailgate. I made a frame from a bunch of 2x4s and hung the excess of the treaded rod to the top of the frame. This gave me lots of room to get the paint gun to all six sides of the tailgate. The 1/2'” bars does bend a little under the weight but it worked great. I got two coats of primer sprayed. I will let that setup and clean up the garage again before I put on the silver and clear.
October 18, 2018
I painted three coats of silver and three coats of clear on the tailgate today so the hard part of refurbing it is finished. I still want to paint the inside recess black like the rest of the bed and add black letters to the Chevrolet embossed letters on the back but that will have to wait until the clear has fully cured. Of course this leads me to another issue. I removed the stock chain bosses from the tailgate so it is only logical that I also remove them from the bedside. But since the bedsides are already painted I need to be very careful and figure out how to repaint that area after I get them off.
October 19, 2018
I felt courageous this morning so I attacked the secondary chain bosses on the bedsides. I could not get my angle cutoff in there so I switched to the air hammer. That worked, noisy and not real pretty but they came off. I have some body work to do to get the areas smooth and then attempt to paint and somehow blend it into the already painted areas.
October 21, 2018
Bodywork is always a relative thing. At best it is simply filling some scratches or a little rust repair. Then there is bodywork needed because of modifications. This bodywork falls into the latter. The way the bedsides are made there are fairly large cutouts for those chain bosses to lineup. I could have just left them alone but now that the bosses have been removed even with the tailgate closed they are very noticeable. I made sheet metal plates to cover the cutouts and used 3M panel adhesive to bond them to the outside of bedsides. This still leaves a recess on the inside which I filled with dura-glass. I sure wish I had the physical ability to weld!
October 24, 2018
As far as painting all this I have decided I can paint the entire rear stake pockets stopping at the outside corners behind the rear fenders and the flares that support the tailgate. This way the transitions on the bedsides will be mostly hidden by the fenders and tail lights. I have finished the bodywork and shot some primer. I am totally out of silver paint and clear so I am off to PPG AGAIN!!
October 26, 2018
Damn weather, it got colder, temp was in the 50’s at 3:00. I had to heat the garage for a few hours to get it to 65 degrees this afternoon. But I got three coats of silver base and three of clear done. Now all I have to do is reassemble this truck again.
October 27, 2018
I got the rear of the truck assembly done….more or less. The tailgate still does not fit right, never did. There is some sort of alignment issue I can’t figure out. The Mar-K tailgate support on the passenger side will not drop down completely when I am closing the tailgate which prevents it from closing. Until I can figure this out I took that support off. I temporarily put the rear roll pan back on. It still needs painting but I will wait until the exhaust is done before I paint. I also got the grille and the front roll pan put back on. At last the truck is back together.
December 1, 2018
Now that the exhaust is done I can get the rear roll pan finished. These things really don’t fit our trucks very well. There is about a ¼” gap at the short straight area of the pan where it sits at the bed side. I made filler pieces with a curved ends to close the gap and make the pan look more professional. I used 3M panel adhesive to attach them.
December 2, 2018
I want to make some bezels around the exhaust cut-outs in the roll pan. I want to make them out of metal but I will first use fiberglass to get the correct curve. I put tape on the roll pan and then laid on several layers of fiberglass to get couture I need. Using the fiberglass part as a pattern I made two bezels out of 16 gauge metal. Bending 16 gauge was tough enough I see no way with the tools I have to bend anything thicker. I used 3M panel adhesive to attach them too.
December 7, 2018
I finished up with the body work on the roll pan so it is time to paint…again. I decided to paint the bezels I attached body color. Weather here has sucked so far this winter but I have a small window today before it gets really cold and possibly even snows. It was a long day of sanding, apply primer, sanding, apply base coat and apply clear but it is done.
December 13, 2018
The paint has setup for a week so today while it is still reasonably warm I reinstalled the rear roll pan.
February 6, 2019
One of the more annoying things about this truck was the top of the dash being painted body color with highly polished clear. During the daytime the reflections onto the windshield off the dash top is horrible.
The plan all along was to fix this. That involves removing the dash pad and from what I have read that is not that easy. I already have the glove box out, the radio will be easy to remove and I am about to pull the gauge cluster so this seems like the time to attempt this. After I got all this stuff off I filled in the speaker slots since there is no speaker anyway. Now the decision of what to cover this with. Vinyl which would be the most difficult but would look the best, textured paint would look good but the interior is pretty much finished so spraying paint is risky or black bed liner that can be brushed on and will lay pretty flat but still might look a bit tacky.
I have decided to go for broke and try the vinyl. I made a cardboard template and transferred that to the vinyl. I painted the small section of windshield frame that will still be seen with some black paint.
February 7, 2019
While I await the courage to put the vinyl on the dash I rewired the harness for the new gauge cluster. The tachometer and the old oil pressure gauge crapped on me so I have no oil monitor, not good. At least that is the excuse I am using to upgrade to a newer style cluster. I found a vender in Florida that sells an aluminum bezel with Dolphin white face gauges with LED turn signals and high beam indicator. The bezel is polished which I do not like so I sanded it, applied etching primer followed by urethane primer and the same semi-gloss black I used on the inside of the hood. I waited a few days for the paint to fully cure before installing the gauges. The speedometer, tachometer, fuel, oil pressure, water temperature and voltage have polished rims and look really nice against the semi-gloss black. I have all the gauges wired and ready to adapt to the truck wiring which using two quick disconnect connectors. I am not looking forward to living under the dash again. One other thing I need to address is the speedometer cable. It is either gone bad or the old speedometer was flaky. It intermittently make a horrible racket. I got a the wiring switched over for the new cluster. It was only a couple wires I had to move. I started the truck and tested the cluster and everything is working. I will have to wait until I can get it installed in the dash and go for a ride to see if the speedometer is working.
February 8, 2019
Now for the scary part, putting the vinyl on the dash with contact cement. I have used this stuff before with good results. But this is a bit different. The vinyl is 71” long and 8”wide, it needs to be put in place without touching the top of the dash until it is in perfect position. Once the contact cement on the two parts touch you are committed! There is not a lot of wiggle room. The plan is to use the cardboard template I made as a buffer. I will place the cardboard on the dash, the contact cement will not stick to it. I will then lay the vinyl on top of the cardboard. Once it is in position I will move the cardboard out a tiny bit and stick the vinyl to the dash along the windshield. If that works I then slowly move the cardboard out while sticking the vinyl down a little at a time. Sounds easy, hope it works as planned. Well, it seems to have worked. I will have to wait a few hours, probably overnight to be sure it has adhered well. And then put the dash pieces-parts back together.
February 9, 2019
The vinyl seems to have bonded well. I was hoping to get this thing back together today but things did not go smoothly at all. The first thing to go back on was the defroster vents. Of course putting vinyl on the dash top caused a problem. The stock dash has indentations for theses vent to sit in. There is no way I was going to attempt to cut the vinyl that perfect so I thought I would just have the vents sit on top of those inedntations. But the little tabs that are supposed to hold the vent on do not have enough room to compensate for the thickness of the vinyl. So I reengineered them! I made two angle brackets, screwed them to the vent tubes and tapped the other side of the bracket and used a screw the push up on the dash top bottom to pull the vent down against the dash, sort of like a sink install, LOL. It worked great. The dash pad was next, it went smoothly other than fighting to get the nuts on the studs, working blind is not my favorite thing. Then things went to hell. I attempted to install the new gauge cluster. Typical aftermarket stuff. I wonder if they ever actually installed this in a 1967 C10, I doubt it. The way the gauges are positioned the two outside gauges hit the mounting bosses where the headlight and wiper holes are on the dash. The cluster panel has machined areas for the headlight and wiper switch mounts but they are not large enough for complete dash mounts. I need to do some surgery!
I really don’t want to cut up this dash but I have little choice at this point. I have decided it might be best to just eliminate the protruding switch mounting places altogether and mount the headlight and wiper switches directly to the cluster instead of the dash. But before I get crazy I emailed the supplier to see what is up with this ill-fitting assembly.
February 10, 2019
Day two of dash reassembly. I am waiting to get a response from the cluster supplier but I have other things to put back on. I started with the center AC vent which I had painted black, very simple. Anytime I can say simple install on an early C10 is unusual! I am changing the wiper switch to a 1965 version because it is just nicer and the one in there now is sketchy at best. I tested the switch pinouts since the connectors are different and spliced the new switch in. The stereo went back on too so the only thing left is the gauge cluster.
February 11, 2019
Day three and hopefully the last day of dash reassembly. I received no response from the supplier of the cluster, granted I only gave them a day. But after looking at this whole thing I see no way it would fit without cutting. So out came the air saw and I cut up the dash!!! The cluster sits flat against the dash frame now. Instead of using screws to hold the cluster to the dash the way GM did this one uses studs and nuts from the back so nothing can be seen from the front. Nice idea, PITA to install. I barely got the nuts on but really could not get a tool in there to tighten them. I put the headlight and wiper switches on and it really does look pretty cool. After I get the steering column and that crazy 1967 e-brake lever back in place this project is done.
February 13, 2019
I did get the steering column back in place but that e-brake needed an upgrade. Like I said the PO painted everything is sight body color and that includes the e-brake. This thing is huge to begin with but being silver in a black interior makes it the most dominating thing in the interior. I pulled it out, sanded off all the silver and painted it semi-gloss black.
Another thing I noticed when I put hooking up the gauges is an issue with the speedometer. It is on the opposite of the cluster than it was before, my choice, and the cable is not long enough to reach. I was planning on changing it anyway so I picked up a 100 inch one.
February 15, 2019
Somewhere along the line I have lost my obsession with chrome. On this truck I am slowly removing or changing anything that is chrome. Both bumpers are gone, the mirrors and wipers have been changed for black ones and the antenna and fender emblems are gone. There are only a few items left in chrome. The window vent frames are chrome and pitted, not sure how I will address that, new ones are crazy expensive. The outside door handles need to be black for sure. Billet ones are available but again crazy expensive. I don’t know if this stuff works and how durable it will be but Dupli-Color makes a paint type product they call Shadow Chrome Blackout. Basically you clean the chrome real good, spray the black coating on, the more coats the darker it gets. Then that is followed with their clear coat. It is not expensive so I’m going to give it a try.
February 16, 2019
Well let’s see if this stuff works as advertised. I took the buttons out of the handles so I could get better coverage. This will require modification to reinstall them. I made a fixture to hold everything and give me good access to all sides. I washed the handles with Dawn dishwashing soap followed by a good wipe down with wax and grease remover. Following directions I applied three coats of the black with twenty minutes between coats. I waited an hour and applied three coats of clear followed by two heaver coats again with twenty minutes between coats. This whole process took well over three hours but I am pleased with how they came out. The big test of course is how this coating holds up. I will give it a few days to fully cure before reassembling and installing them.
February 21, 2019
Since the outside door handles came out so well and I have stuff left over I thought I would do the inside handles and window cranks too. This time I only did two coats of the black to give them a bit more transparency.
March 9, 2019
I am a little beat up from the cut spring project so today I am taking lighter detour to some custom projects I want to finish. Mainly the black chrome outside door handles and locks. This was a simple bolt back on went smoothly. Of course this is only temporary since I still have some bodywork and paint to do on both doors.
March 10, 2019
My latest plan is to fix the useless outside mirrors. Right now the passenger side mirror is totally useless where it sits and the driver side sits too low. For functionality and aesthetics I picked up some ‘67-‘70 Chevy C10 black mirror head arms and five inch round heads. The problem is where they would have to mount is much different than where the mirrors mount now. Searching around the internet I found several ’67 C10’s with these mirrors and they are all mounted just forward of the wing window, so at least I have a clue now.
I had to help a buddy with a project today so I really didn’t get any real work done on the truck. But before we started working on his car he helped me position the mirrors. I sat in the truck while he held them into a useful position and marked for the three mounting holes.
March 11, 2019
I have some option for mounting the mirrors. There is one significant problem with where these mirrors mount. There is no access from inside the door to attach a nut to the mounting bolts. The stock trucks use self-tapping screws, I hate self-tapping screws because they will eventually cause rust and can loosen over time. I reverted back to my old stand bye, nutserts, and bolted the mirrors on the doors. It is too cool to have mirrors you can actually use on this truck.